Pelle

Alt alle macchie su viso e collo

di Stefania Maroni
Contro le discromie cutanee, inibitori della melanina, filtri UV e alta tecnologia.

178820330All’inizio è solo un’ombreggiatura leggera, ma spesso bastano poche settimane perché si trasformi in una macchia color caffelatte, decisamente antiestetica. «Alla base c’è un’eccessiva produzione di melanina o una difficoltà nel suo smaltimento», spiega Antonino Di Pietro, direttore dell’Istituto dermoclinico vita cutis di Milano.
ORIGINE DELLO SQUILIBRIO
Quali sono le cause di questo squilibrio? «Si ritiene che la responsabilità sia degli ormoni, in particolare degli estrogeni. Il disturbo, infatti, si manifesta più di frequente nelle situazioni caratterizzate da variazioni ormonali: durante la gravidanza, in menopausa, nelle adolescenti e nelle donne che prendono la pillola anticoncezionale. Ma tra le cause possono esserci anche alcuni farmaci, come gli antibiotici e i cortisonici o l’uso dei profumi, che interagiscono con il sole», afferma lo specialista.
STRATEGIE PREVENTIVE
Trattandosi di una sovrapproduzione di melanina, i raggi ultravioletti hanno un ruolo determinante. Le persone che sanno di essere a rischio, quindi, devono evitare l’esposizione al sole e proteggere la pelle con creme dotate di filtri UV, più potenti durante l’estate, in vacanza e in città (praticissimi i fondotinta solari compatti Spf 50+ che, oltre a fornire all’epidermide un valido schermo, mimetizzano perfettamente le discromie).
INTERVENTI TEMPESTIVI
In una buona percentuale di casi, le macchie scompaiono spontaneamente quando vengono eliminate le cause che le hanno determinate. In caso contrario, è bene intervenire al più presto. «Se la pigmentazione è recente, infatti, è probabile che sia limitata allo strato epidermico; mentre se è di vecchia data, presumibilmente interessa anche il derma, ovvero lo strato più profondo, quindi è più difficile da rimuovere», precisa Antonino Di Pietro.
PRINCIPI ATTIVI SCHIARENTI
Negli ultimi anni, il numero delle donne colpite da discromie cutanee è aumentato parecchio, anche a causa dei raggi UV sempre più aggressivi. Di conseguenza è cresciuta anche la richiesta di prodotti schiarenti, efficaci e privi di effetti collaterali. Così, nei laboratori cosmetici delle grandi maison la ricerca si è concentrata sulla messa a punto di formule a base di sostanze in grado di moderare e regolare la pigmentazione cutanea. Attualmente, quelle che hanno dato i risultati migliori sono di origine vegetale, come l’arbutina (ottenuta dall’uva ursina), gli estratti di luppolo e di liquirizia, la diacetil boldina (derivata dal boldo), spesso associate ai ben collaudati acido glicolico (esfoliante) e vitamina C
STRUMENTI DI MEDICINA ESTETICA
Quando le macchie sono particolarmente resistenti, niente vieta di ricorrere alla medicina estetica, che offre varie metodiche per la soluzione del problema: maschere ad alta concentrazione di sostanze schiarenti (applicate sotto controllo medico), apparecchi a luce pulsata e particolari tipi di laser che distruggono il tessuto colpito dalla discromia. Durante l’estate, però, queste terapie sono controindicate perché la pelle trattata è particolarmente sensibile ai raggi UV, anche se li riceve di riflesso.

© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA
Publicato in: Trattamenti, Viso Argomenti: , , Data: 03-06-2014 05:43 PM


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