Tendenza

Labbra a tutto colore

di Antonella Rossi
Nuance shock e finish mat. La primavera non conosce mezze misure. I consigli del makeup artist per essere eteree, sensuali, provocanti e sempre chic.

Rosso, arancio, corallo, ma anche lampone, fragola e fucsia: le labbra di primavera si accendono di sfumature decise, che sfidano l’altra grande tendenza di queste settimane, quella del nude. Niente mezze misure, dunque, ma scelte radicali, accomunate da colori pieni e pigmentati e dalla prevalenza di un finish opaco, scelta sempre elegante e adatta a ogni donna. Se pensate però che labbra rosso lacca e nuance shocking siano esclusivo appannaggio di star e modelle, è il momento di ricredersi. Con qualche piccolo accorgimento tutte possono sfoggiare un look alla moda. Letteradonna.it ha chiesto consiglio a Rajan Tolomei, make-up artist di MaxFactor Italia, che ci ha spiegato come avere labbra perfette.

UNA NUANCE PER OGNI DONNA
«Il primo nodo da sciogliere è quello legato alla nuance del rossetto, che non va scelta a caso, ma in base a tre fattori determinanti: il colore dei capelli, quello della pelle e l’età», spiega Rajan. «Se avete capelli dorati sono perfetti il salmone, l’arancio, il corallo e i bordeaux. Per chi ha sfumature cenere, meglio malva, lilla, borgogna e fucsia. Per le more “biancaneve”, ossia quelle con pelle chiara, via libera a rosso fragola, ciliegia e bordeaux, mentre per la mora mediterranea, con carnagione più olivastra,  sì a malva e lilla se più chiara, meglio i toni del prugna se più scura. No a tonalità aranciate, perché la pelle tende a spegnersi e ad apparire più gialla e verdastra», chiarisce l’esperto.
COLORI DIFFICILI
I colori più trend del momento nascondono però qualche insidia in più. «Tra le nuance di stagione, l’arancio è molto difficile da portare, perché sta bene soprattutto a chi ha pelle chiara, efelidi e occhi tendenti all’acqua», avverte Rajan Tolomei. Il più pericoloso è però l’insospettabile fucsia, che a differenza di quanto potrebbe sembrare non sta bene a tutte. «È perfetto per le bionde platino e le more biancaneve. Alle altre consiglio il fragola. Un colore divertente, estremamente chic, dinamico e femminile. Versatile, è molto bello con l’abbronzatura, ma dona anche a chi non ce l’ha. Luminoso, mette ogni donna a proprio agio», suggerisce l’esperto.
I TRUCCHI…DEL MESTIERE
Una volta scelto il colore bisogna passare alla stesura, che per alcune donne è un vero e proprio cruccio, perché non sempre il rossetto mantiene le promesse, durando meno del dovuto. Una questione soggettiva, che dipende da diversi fattori, come la secchezza delle labbra o il modo di parlare. «Per farlo durare di più consiglio di creare una base stendendo sulle labbra un correttore. Si crea così una superficie uniforme e il rossetto non viene alterato dal colore delle labbra. Poi bisogna passare una matita nello stesso tono del rossetto. A questo punto si può fare una prima stesura, da tamponare con cipria, e poi dare il tocco definitivo», consiglia Rajan Tolomei. «La base con matita serve anche per giocare con i toni del rossetto. Se volete ottenere un colore più acceso usatene una di due toni più chiari, se invece preferite un colore più sobrio meglio di due toni più scuri», aggiunge l’esperto.
ETEREA O PROVOCANTE?
Non resta che pensare al resto del trucco, e qui non ci sono regole, se non quelle del buon gusto. Dipende dall’effetto che si vuole ottenere. «Per un look chic luminoso, ma anche etereo e impalpabile, viso e occhi devono essere rigorosamente nude. Puntate su un incarnato perfetto, mettete un blush beige rosato ed esibite sopracciglia curate», consiglia Rajan. «Se invece lo scopo è una serata o un evento cool e, soprattutto!, siete donne dalla forte personalità, fate uno smokey eyes sui toni del grigio-prugna-marrone. Abbinato a un rossetto shock, il look diventa drammatico, perfetto per una donna sensuale e provocante, che non passa inosservata. Vietato, invece, un makeup troppo colorato abbinato a una bocca violenta, assomigliereste a un manga giapponese», conclude l’esperto. Eleganza al primo posto, dunque. Meglio essere chic!

 

 

© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA
Publicato in: Crea il tuo look, Gallery, Make-up, Viso Argomenti: , , Data: 05-03-2014 10:05 AM


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