BEAUTY TREND

Un'estate al profumo di iris

di Stefania Maroni
L’essenza dà vita a fragranze destinate al successo. Insieme a sentori muschiati o agrumati.
Profumo. L'iris è tra le fragranze di profumeria più pregiate ed è protagonista dell'estate 2013. (Thinkstock)

Profumo. L’iris è tra le fragranze di profumeria più pregiate ed è protagonista dell’estate 2013. (Thinkstock)

Lo stelo lungo, le foglie slanciate e un’elegante corolla in tutte le sfumature del blu o del viola fanno dell’iris uno splendido ornamento che abbellisce terrazzi e giardini. Ma il vero tesoro di questo fiore è racchiuso nel suo rizoma (fusto simile alla radice posto a pochi centimetri di profondità) da cui si estrae un’essenza preziosa che, in questi ultimi mesi, è diventata la protagonista assoluta di profumi di grande successo. Ma non si tratta certo di una new entry.
CORREVA L’ANNO 1553
Quando Caterina de’Medici lasciò la sua Firenze alla volta di Parigi, per sposare Enrico II d’Orleans e diventare regina di Francia, portò con sé il profumo creato per lei nella spezieria dei frati Domenicani. Si trattava di una sapiente miscela di sentori agrumati, da cui emergevano le note intense e vagamente cipriate dell’iris. Presto denominata Eau de la Reine, la fragranza ispirò numerosi essenzieri, ma nessuno riuscì a creare un bouquet che la eguagliasse in originalità e raffinatezza. Oggi, l’Eau de la Reine usata da Caterina de’ Medici viene prodotta solo nell’Officina di Santa Maria Novella di Firenze, depositaria della formula.
ESSENZA DI PREGIO
Attualmente, l’essenza di iris è una delle sostanze più costose usate in profumeria. Il rizoma da cui si estrae, infatti, è delicatissimo e va raccolto manualmente, poi tagliato e fatto essiccare attraverso un procedimento artigianale. Prima della distillazione, però, devono passare tre anni, il tempo necessario perché si formino gli ironi, molecole volatili dal caratteristico profumo intenso e penetrante. A far lievitare il prezzo concorre anche la bassa resa: basti pensare che per ottenere due litri di olio essenziale occorrono ben 250 chili di rizoma essiccato, corrispondenti a una  tonnellata di prodotto fresco.
ACCORDI ARMONIOSI
Le inconfondibili note dell’iris possono essere enfatizzate da altri sentori. Come gli agrumi o la menta del Marocco, che danno un tocco frizzante alle eau de toilette; mentre le fragranze avvolgenti della rosa damascena o della violetta rendono sontuosi i bouquet, dove l’iris rimane comunque la vera star. L’intreccio con caldi accordi muschiati, invece, dà vita a jus ad alto tasso di sensualità. Anche gli aromi gourmand sono in perfetta sintonia con l’iris, in particolare quello della vaniglia,  e fiori d’arancio che esalta il carattere romantico dei profumi cipriati.

© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA
Publicato in: Gallery, Profumi Argomenti: , , , Data: 21-06-2013 09:16 AM


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