CURIOSITÀ

C'era una volta il trucco

di Stefania Maroni
Prima il rossetto, poi il rimmel, infine il fondotinta. Il make up ha una storia lunga almeno 150 anni.
Make up. Il make up ha una storia lunga 150 anni, caratterizzata da continue evoluzioni e perfezionamenti. (Thinkstock)

Il make up ha una storia lunga 150 anni, caratterizzata da continue evoluzioni e perfezionamenti. (Thinkstock)

Nella hit parade del make up al primo posto troviamo il rossetto, seguono mascara, fondotinta e fard. Sono i cosmetici più amati dalle donne di tutto il mondo che, fin dai tempi più antichi, li considerano indispensabili strumenti di fascino. Ma i trucchi, così come li conosciamo noi, sono nati tra la metà dell’Ottocento e i primi decenni del secolo scorso. E spesso hanno alle spalle storie curiose.
IL ROUGE ERA UN LUSSO
Per ravvivare le labbra le mordicchiavano quasi a sangue poi, per renderle lucenti, stendevano un velo di vaselina: fino ai primi del Novecento le donne truccavano le labbra in questo modo, dando prova di molta fantasia e di una certa intraprendenza. Solo a Parigi, dal 1870, le signore più ricche e audaci varcavano la soglia della boutique Guerlain per acquistare «Ne m’oubliez pas», uno stick colorato per labbra che si estraeva da un astuccio dotato di un sistema a spinta.
LA GRANDE SVOLTA NEL 1915
Correva l’anno 1915 quando il geniale chimico americano Maurice Levy sviluppò l’invenzione di monsieur Guerlain racchiudendo la pasta colorata in un tubetto molto simile a quelli attuali, che mise in vendita a prezzi contenuti. Inoltre, riuscì ad ampliare notevolmente la gamma delle tinte, che andavano dal vivace corallo, al rosa più delicato, dall’intenso amaranto al rosso fuoco. Insomma non c’era che l’imbarazzo della scelta. E il rossetto fu sulla bocca di tutte.
PRIMA DEL MASCARA, IL RIMMEL
Francese d’origine, Eugene Rimmel si trasferì a Londra nel 1834. Lo stesso anno, insieme al padre, aprì una profumeria con annesso laboratorio. Qui creò pomate, colluttori e, attorno al 1840, un impasto semiliquido color pece, non tossico, per scurire e allungare le ciglia. Il successo fu tale che il nuovo cosmetico prese il nome del suo inventore. Come pure le innumerevoli imitazioni (evidentemente non era coperto da brevetto).
TUTTO MERITO DI MABEL
Nel 1913, il chimico americano Thomas Williams si cimentò nel perfezionamento della formula di Rimmel. Lo fece soprattutto per amore della sorella Mabel che, tra i vari corteggiatori, aveva individuato un possibile fidanzato e voleva colpirlo mettendo in risalto i suoi bellissimi occhi azzurri, a cui le ciglia chiare e rade non rendevano merito.
EVOLUZIONI DELLA FORMULA
La nuova formula era molto semplice: polvere di carbone e vaselina gelatinosa. Il prodotto andò subito a ruba, inducendo Williams ad ampliare la produzione e a fondare una casa cosmetica, la Maybelline (dal nome della sorella), che oggi fa parte del colosso L’Oréal. La moderna confezione del mascara, a tubo e con scovolino, invece, si deve a Helena Rubinstein, che la lanciò nel 1957.
IL VISAGISTA DI HOLLYWOOD
Occhi circondati da un alone scuro e bocca rosso cremisi: era il classico look delle dive d’antan, in palcoscenico e sui set del cinema muto. Almeno fino al 1909, anno in cui sbarcò a Hollywood Maksimillian Faktorowicz, un visagista polacco che cambiò subito il suo nome nel più semplice e accattivante Max Factor. Intraprendente e dotato di uno straordinario senso del colore, nell’arco di pochi mesi divenne il truccatore preferito delle dive dell’epoca, per le quali creava make up su misura.
E NACQUE IL FONDOTINTA
Ma fu nel 1914 che Max Factor visse il suo momento magico, quando mise a punto un mix di cere, oli e pigmenti che, steso sulla pelle, creava un base impeccabile e di colore uniforme. Non a caso, questo innovativo prodotto venne battezzato fondotinta. In seguito, ebbe altre geniali intuizioni: negli Anni Venti inventò le ciglia finte per la star del cinema muto Pyllis Haver, mentre negli Anni Trenta fece brillare le labbra della splendida Lilian Gish con il primo lip-gloss.

© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA
Publicato in: Gallery, Make-up Argomenti: , , , Data: 22-05-2013 10:45 AM


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