MAKE UP

Tutte le sfumature dell'occhio

di Alessia Sironi
Impazza il trucco smokey. Ma non solo nero: via libera a muschio, melanzana e cioccolato.
Quest'inverno osate sfumature diverse dal solito nero. Provate con il melanzana e cioccolato.

Quest'inverno osate sfumature diverse dal solito nero. Provate con il melanzana e cioccolato.

Gli occhi sono protagonisti assoluti della stagione autunnale. E il mood che li contraddistingue è quello hippy-chic. Non bisogna aver paura di sottolineare lo sguardo, perché l’unica parola d’ordine per questa stagione è “osare”.
UNO SMOKEY DIVERSO
Dusty nuance che si “aggirano” sui toni del blu notte sporcato di grigio, del verde, dal cupo sottobosco al più eccentrico pavone, fino alle sfumature del prugna e del malva, che si accendono di pagliuzze brillanti. Sì, perché lo smokey eye non è solo nero. Ma si tinge di colori più naturali, perfetti sia di giorno che di sera. Sono le nuove opzioni che servono a intensificare lo sguardo senza appesantirlo troppo e, soprattutto, senza risultare fuori luogo. Perché l’effetto femme fatale è dietro l’angolo. E perché, quando si è di corsa, non si ha certo tempo per cambi d’abito o di make up. Ecco allora che lo smokey eye quest’anno è forse meno intenso del rassicurante caro e vecchio black, ma ha il vantaggio di poter essere sfoggiato a qualsiasi ora del giorno.
MELANZANA, MUSCHIO E CIOCCOLATO
Accostare colori che mai si avreste pensato di poter avvicinare. Ecco il segreto per un occhio da star, e a rivelarlo è il make up artist Giuliano De Neri che spiega: «Il leit motiv dell’ombreggiatura è continuamente ricorrente, perfetto ad esempio il melanzana con il cioccolato o il muschio col marron glacé. Gli occhi vengono sfumati non solo sulla palpebra mobile, ma anche sopra e sotto lungo la rima ciliare con tratti grafici delineati e ben precisi». Lo smokey insomma viene rivisitato con tutti i colori già visti sulle passerelle, «e non bisogna scordare l’esasperazione portata all’eccesso dal mascara, possibilmente ton sur ton, distribuito a volontà», racconta ancora l’esperto.
SGUARDI INTENSI
Ma come procedere nel migliore dei modi, anche senza molta dimestichezza? «Io consiglio sempre di iniziare a fare delle prove con colori tenui o neutri, magari in occasione di uscite con amiche, così che possano giudicare loro stesse i nostri progressi», continua il make up artist, «In realtà la tecnica utilizzata per realizzare lo smokey eye è adatta a tutte perché intensifica lo sguardo e punta l’attenzione sugli occhi. Però bisogna fare attenzione in primis all’accostamento dei colori degli ombretti con quelli dell’iride, per far si che non si trasformi in un trucco volgare; in secondo luogo a utilizzare, prima dell’ombretto, un buon primer su tutta la palpebra, così da evitare sbavature successive».

© RIPRODUZIONE RISERVATA
Publicato in: Gallery, Make-up Argomenti: , Data: 24-10-2012 06:04 PM


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